I've been home five days and I'm pretty much recovered from jet-lag. It's a good time to reflect back on my trip.
First, it wasn't long enough. I don't think one can spend too much time in Paris. My first trip in 1994 was for three days and Mom and I covered all the big sights. Looking back at it I'm amazed at how much ground we covered, but we were 23 years younger, too. Our next 2 trips were about the same length and covered different activities. Now, after three trips of two weeks each, I am amazed how much more there is to see in Paris.
Physically, though, I was ready to go home (mentally, I could have stayed longer). At 70 and after recent hip and shoulder replacements, I just wasn't up to the physical demands required of this sort of travel. I had to watch every step I took, but was able to remain upright. It was exhausting, but that doesn't mean I didn't love every minute.
Getting Around
The Navigo pass is convenient and cost-effective. At 22.80 euros for a week (Monday through Sunday) and covering five zones, there is no less expensive way to use public transportation. I got the pass in 2013 and have used it for three trips. My Barclays Visa card with a PIN (and no foreign transaction fee) allowed me to recharge at a machine. I needed to buy Metro tickets only on the first Sunday I was in Paris.
I used the Metro much more on this trip than on prior trips. Having the Line 1 station nearby was probably a factor. There was also a nearby bus stop servicing 3 lines. The Metro requires lots of stairs and walking through tunnels, but the trains are frequent and they get you to your destination quickly. I always looked for the exits with escalators, but stairways are unavoidable. Between the Metro and buses, I could get to any place in Paris and even the suburbs pretty efficiently.
One challenge with the buses is that they are often rerouted. The driver would make an announcement, which was understood by the locals, but totally over my head. So, I would end up being let off someplace where I had to figure out how to get to my destination. It happened two times, both when on the way back to the apartment. Once I was able to walk, and the other time I switched to the Metro.
Paris is a great city for walking. It is fairly flat and the tourist sights are in a fairly central and compact area surrounding the Seine River. However, many sidewalks are narrow and uneven. Many slope toward the curb (so they can be hosed off) and some have broken pavement. I literally had to watch every step to avoid tripping and falling.
People
Despite what is commonly believed, I have always found the French to be polite and easy to deal with - as long as you observe their standard of politeness. This includes beginning every encounter with "Bonjour" and ending it with "Merci, au revoir." If you do otherwise, you will be met with aloofness and the brush-off. But, if you need help, the French will go out of their way to provide it.
The locals and others who know where they are going walk purposely and if you aren't paying attention you risk being bowled over. Other pedestrians don't give way! Groups, often teens, stand in the middle of the sidewalk talking, and it is up to you to either plow through or go around - they won't move. "Pardon," was the password I used to get through. It is ironic to me that in a city where politeness is nearly a religion (see above), street behavior is so abrupt, brusque and outright rude. However, drop something and five people with rush to help you pick it up.
Food
Of course, the food is great! The best bread and pastries in the world. The pastries are eye-candy and taste as good as they look. This is not the place for anyone who is eating low carb - in fact, I just ate and enjoyed with no regrets.
I ate breakfast at the apartment as well as most dinners, which consisted mostly of cold foods -- I didn't cook, using the microwave once and never using the cooktop. All my lunches were out and were the opportunity to enjoy French cuisine. I know a lot of people - so called "foodies" - obsess about what and where they will eat while in Paris, but I mostly just pick a place as I walk around and I've rarely been disappointed. Ordering salads is fun because they would never be as expected. The French put their own spin on a Caesar salad and most salads come topped with a poached egg. I saw more hamburgers on menus, and had two, and they were good. Again, the French have put their own spin on the lowly burger and have improved upon it.
You can buy coffee anywhere, from a simple espresso to elaborate coffee drinks. I would order an espresso after a meal or when I just wanted to use the restroom (toilette), or a café crème (coffee with milk) if I wanted to sit, rest and people watch for awhile. I think my most expensive café crème was 7 euros (yikes!), but when you are tired and the people-watching is good, it's worth it.
My most expensive lunch was 70 euros, including 21 euros for a glass of champagne! I was planning on the splurge, but 21 euros for a small glass of champagne. It was a nice experience though and I had a view of the Eiffel Tower.
I did my grocery shopping at the G20 Supermarche where I thought the prices for the things I bought were very reasonable. I also enjoy shopping at the outdoor markets. There is an outdoor market somewhere in Paris, sometimes at two or more locations, everyday except Monday. They are a great way to mingle with locals and get some local color. Some of the markets are huge and include clothing and houseware items, and souvenirs for the tourists, as well as food. One could literally buy everything needed for a week's groceries except for staples at an outdoor market.
Language
I didn't practice my French as much prior to this trip, but what French I had seemed to be enough. Even if I had practiced more, I wouldn't have had enough to converse with a local. I just don't understand spoken French well enough - they speak really fast. As fast as we do in English, I'm sure. But, using French did open doors allowing me to have some interesting conversations in English with some of the locals, mostly people in shops who weren't busy while I was there. In most cases when I spoke French, people weren't quick to switch to English - they waited until my French ran out. Knowing some basic French words and phrases, though, is essential to having a positive experience interacting with people in France.
Scams
This trip I mostly avoided places where large crowds gather, which means I didn't see any scammers. No petition girls, no gold ring drop, no bracelet guys. I know they are still there, but I managed to avoid them.
I used a cross-body bag and kept it close, so didn't run into any pickpockets either.
Favorite Moments
I think my favorite moment was being at the Champs de Mars while the Eiffel Tower sparkled. It was magical. I'd seen it before, but it is still magical.
My other favorite moments involved people: the interactions I had with a few locals; a conversation with a young woman at a café, who was newly arrived from Australia; spending a day trip with young women from India and Japan; and meeting up with some friends of a friend. I like solo travel, but that doesn't mean I don't like interacting with people.
The locals and others who know where they are going walk purposely and if you aren't paying attention you risk being bowled over. Other pedestrians don't give way! Groups, often teens, stand in the middle of the sidewalk talking, and it is up to you to either plow through or go around - they won't move. "Pardon," was the password I used to get through. It is ironic to me that in a city where politeness is nearly a religion (see above), street behavior is so abrupt, brusque and outright rude. However, drop something and five people with rush to help you pick it up.
Food
Of course, the food is great! The best bread and pastries in the world. The pastries are eye-candy and taste as good as they look. This is not the place for anyone who is eating low carb - in fact, I just ate and enjoyed with no regrets.
I ate breakfast at the apartment as well as most dinners, which consisted mostly of cold foods -- I didn't cook, using the microwave once and never using the cooktop. All my lunches were out and were the opportunity to enjoy French cuisine. I know a lot of people - so called "foodies" - obsess about what and where they will eat while in Paris, but I mostly just pick a place as I walk around and I've rarely been disappointed. Ordering salads is fun because they would never be as expected. The French put their own spin on a Caesar salad and most salads come topped with a poached egg. I saw more hamburgers on menus, and had two, and they were good. Again, the French have put their own spin on the lowly burger and have improved upon it.
You can buy coffee anywhere, from a simple espresso to elaborate coffee drinks. I would order an espresso after a meal or when I just wanted to use the restroom (toilette), or a café crème (coffee with milk) if I wanted to sit, rest and people watch for awhile. I think my most expensive café crème was 7 euros (yikes!), but when you are tired and the people-watching is good, it's worth it.
My most expensive lunch was 70 euros, including 21 euros for a glass of champagne! I was planning on the splurge, but 21 euros for a small glass of champagne. It was a nice experience though and I had a view of the Eiffel Tower.
I did my grocery shopping at the G20 Supermarche where I thought the prices for the things I bought were very reasonable. I also enjoy shopping at the outdoor markets. There is an outdoor market somewhere in Paris, sometimes at two or more locations, everyday except Monday. They are a great way to mingle with locals and get some local color. Some of the markets are huge and include clothing and houseware items, and souvenirs for the tourists, as well as food. One could literally buy everything needed for a week's groceries except for staples at an outdoor market.
Language
I didn't practice my French as much prior to this trip, but what French I had seemed to be enough. Even if I had practiced more, I wouldn't have had enough to converse with a local. I just don't understand spoken French well enough - they speak really fast. As fast as we do in English, I'm sure. But, using French did open doors allowing me to have some interesting conversations in English with some of the locals, mostly people in shops who weren't busy while I was there. In most cases when I spoke French, people weren't quick to switch to English - they waited until my French ran out. Knowing some basic French words and phrases, though, is essential to having a positive experience interacting with people in France.
Scams
This trip I mostly avoided places where large crowds gather, which means I didn't see any scammers. No petition girls, no gold ring drop, no bracelet guys. I know they are still there, but I managed to avoid them.
I used a cross-body bag and kept it close, so didn't run into any pickpockets either.
Favorite Moments
I think my favorite moment was being at the Champs de Mars while the Eiffel Tower sparkled. It was magical. I'd seen it before, but it is still magical.
My other favorite moments involved people: the interactions I had with a few locals; a conversation with a young woman at a café, who was newly arrived from Australia; spending a day trip with young women from India and Japan; and meeting up with some friends of a friend. I like solo travel, but that doesn't mean I don't like interacting with people.
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