Post Trip Reflections

I've been home five days and I'm pretty much recovered from jet-lag.  It's a good time to reflect back on my trip.

First, it wasn't long enough.  I don't think one can spend too much time in Paris.  My first trip in 1994 was for three days and Mom and I covered all the big sights. Looking back at it I'm amazed at how much ground we covered, but we were 23 years younger, too.  Our next 2 trips were about the same length and covered different activities. Now, after three trips of two weeks each, I am amazed how much more there is to see in Paris.

Physically, though, I was ready to go home (mentally, I could have stayed longer).  At 70 and after recent hip and shoulder replacements, I just wasn't up to the physical demands required of this sort of travel.  I had to watch every step I took, but was able to remain upright. It was exhausting, but that doesn't mean I didn't love every minute.

Getting Around

The Navigo pass is convenient and cost-effective.  At 22.80 euros for a week (Monday through Sunday) and covering five zones, there is no less expensive way to use public transportation. I got the pass in 2013 and have used it for three trips.  My Barclays Visa card with a PIN (and no foreign transaction fee) allowed me to recharge at a machine. I needed to buy Metro tickets only on the first Sunday I was in Paris.

I used the Metro much more on this trip than on prior trips.  Having the Line 1 station nearby was probably a factor.  There was also a nearby bus stop servicing 3 lines.  The Metro requires lots of stairs and walking through tunnels, but the trains are frequent and they get you to your destination quickly.  I always looked for the exits with escalators, but stairways are unavoidable.  Between the Metro and buses, I could get to any place in Paris and even the suburbs pretty efficiently.

One challenge with the buses is that they are often rerouted.  The driver would make an announcement, which was understood by the locals, but totally over my head.  So, I would end up being let off someplace where I had to figure out how to get to my destination.  It happened two times, both when on the way back to the apartment.  Once I was able to walk, and the other time I switched to the Metro.

Paris is a great city for walking.  It is fairly flat and the tourist sights are in a fairly central and compact area surrounding the Seine River.  However, many sidewalks are narrow and uneven.  Many slope toward the curb (so they can be hosed off) and some have broken pavement.  I literally had to watch every step to avoid tripping and falling. 

People

Despite what is commonly believed, I have always found the French to be polite and easy to deal with - as long as you observe their standard of politeness.  This includes beginning every encounter with "Bonjour" and ending it with "Merci, au revoir." If you do otherwise, you will be met with aloofness and the brush-off.  But, if you need help, the French will go out of their way to provide it.

The locals and others who know where they are going walk purposely and if you aren't paying attention you risk being bowled over.  Other pedestrians don't give way!  Groups, often teens, stand in the middle of the sidewalk talking, and it is up to you to either plow through or go around - they won't move.  "Pardon," was the password I used to get through.  It is ironic to me that in a city where politeness is nearly a religion (see above), street behavior is so abrupt, brusque and outright rude. However, drop something and five people with rush to help you pick it up.

Food

Of course, the food is great!  The best bread and pastries in the world.  The pastries are eye-candy and taste as good as they look.  This is not the place for anyone who is eating low carb - in fact, I just ate and enjoyed with no regrets.

I ate breakfast at the apartment as well as most dinners, which consisted mostly of cold foods -- I didn't cook, using the microwave once and never using the cooktop.  All my lunches were out and were the opportunity to enjoy French cuisine.  I know a lot of people - so called "foodies" - obsess about what and where they will eat while in Paris, but I mostly just pick a place as I walk around and I've rarely been disappointed.  Ordering salads is fun because they would never be as expected.  The French put their own spin on a Caesar salad and most salads come topped with a poached egg.  I saw more hamburgers on menus, and had two, and they were good.  Again, the French have put their own spin on the lowly burger and have improved upon it.

You can buy coffee anywhere, from a simple espresso to elaborate coffee drinks.  I would order an espresso after a meal or when I just wanted to use the restroom (toilette), or a café crème (coffee with milk) if I wanted to sit, rest and people watch for awhile.  I think my most expensive café crème was 7 euros (yikes!), but when you are tired and the people-watching is good, it's worth it.

My most expensive lunch was 70 euros, including 21 euros for a glass of champagne! I was planning on the splurge, but 21 euros for a small glass of champagne.  It was a nice experience though and I had a view of the Eiffel Tower.

I did my grocery shopping at the G20 Supermarche where I thought the prices for the things I bought were very reasonable.  I also enjoy shopping at the outdoor markets.  There is an outdoor market somewhere in Paris, sometimes at two or more locations, everyday except Monday.  They are a great way to mingle with locals and get some local color.  Some of the markets are huge and include clothing and houseware items, and souvenirs for the tourists, as well as food. One could literally buy everything needed for a week's groceries except for staples at an outdoor market.

Language

I didn't practice my French as much prior to this trip, but what French I had seemed to be enough.  Even if I had practiced more, I wouldn't have had enough to converse with a local.  I just don't understand spoken French well enough - they speak really fast.  As fast as we do in English, I'm sure. But, using French did open doors allowing me to have some interesting conversations in English with some of the locals, mostly people in shops who weren't busy while I was there. In most cases when I spoke French, people weren't quick to switch to English - they waited until my French ran out.  Knowing some basic French words and phrases, though, is essential to having a positive experience interacting with people in France.

Scams

This trip I mostly avoided places where large crowds gather, which means I didn't see any scammers. No petition girls, no gold ring drop, no bracelet guys.  I know they are still there, but I managed to avoid them.

I used a cross-body bag and kept it close, so didn't run into any pickpockets either.

Favorite Moments

I think my favorite moment was being at the Champs de Mars while the Eiffel Tower sparkled.  It was magical.  I'd seen it before, but it is still magical.

My other favorite moments involved people: the interactions I had with a few locals; a conversation with a young woman at a café, who was newly arrived from Australia; spending a day trip with young women from India and Japan; and meeting up with some friends of a friend. I like solo travel, but that doesn't mean I don't like interacting with people.

Day 15, September 23 - Au revoir, Paris; 11,000 steps

I got most of my stuff packed Friday night, so after breakfast I just had to finish packing the odds and ends, tidy the apartment and take out trash. Joanna from Cobblestone arrived right at 10 to help me take my suitcase down the steep stairway. I had specifically asked for assistance as there is a handrail for only a third of the stairway, and although there are only 16 steps, I could visualize me and my suitcase ending up in a heap at the bottom.

I had arranged for a G7 taxi to pick me up at 10:20 and he arrived a few minutes early to take me to the Novotel at the airport terminal. I had registered online that morning, so when I arrived before noon I was able to drop my luggage off in my room, which was ready for me.  I then took the train back to Paris, using my Navigo pass.

When I was in Paris in 2013, I had lunch at La Rose de France on Place Dauphin on the Ile de la Cite. It was my most memorable lunch as the starter was three different preparations of foie gras: a slice of pure foie gras, creme brule made with foie gras, and foie gras glace (ice cream), which was absolutely the best thing I have ever had in my mouth. For four years I have thought about this, so decided that this trip my last lunch in Paris would be at La Rose de France. Unfortunately, their foie gras starter no longer includes the glace, but it was excellent nonetheless. I also had a kir royal, which is champagne with creme de Cassis  (black current liquor). The main course was a veal chop with mushroom sauce and mashed potatoes, and for dessert fresh strawberries with whipped cream and vanilla ice cream, finished with "un cafe" and a perfect chocolate truffle. Even without the foie gras glace, it was the perfect lunch for my last day in Paris.

After lunch I took a one-hour Seine River cruise. There was a "techno festival" as well as a demonstration against changes in France's labor laws happening over on the Right Bank near the Louvre and I could hear the loud music  and shouting from where I was on the Left Bank, being thankful that I was not in the midst of the huge crowd of people over there. It was peaceful on the river, though, and nice to see so many landmarks - a good ending to a wonderful visit to Paris.

I took the train (RER B) back to the airport. The Novotel is conveniently located very close to the CDG train station. In my opinion, the RER, which is a system connecting Paris to the suburbs, is not as nice as the Metro. The stations seem to be more grim as are the trains themselves. A lot of people use them as cheap transport to and from the airport, but with luggage consisting of more than carry-on, they aren't very convenient as there are lots of stairs.  I really prefer taking a taxi, which is now a flat rate of either 50 or 55 euros depending on whether you are going to the Right Bank or the Left.

I had a chicken Caesar salad for dinner at the restaurant at the hotel.  What is it about the French that they always want to top every salad with a poached egg? It was pretty good, anyway.

The  Novotel is a 4-star hotel, part of the Accor group that includes Ibis in France and Motel 6 in the US. The French hotel star system is different than in the US as it reflects amenities more than luxury. For me, staying at the airport the night before a morning flight is more convenient than staying over in Paris proper. The recommended arrival time for an international flight is 3 hours prior to flight time, so for my 10:10 flight, I needed to be at check-in by 7:10. At the Novotel, I was less than 15 minutes away from Terminal 2E via the free subway shuttle.

The next morning, I had a quick breakfast at the hotel and was at check-in by 7:00. I had checked in online the day before, but needed a boarding pass and to drop off my suitcase. They do a passport  check at check-in. Then you go through passport control to exit the country, then they check it again when you go through security, and again  when you board the plane,  Surprisingly, all of that went very quickly as there were not yet huge lines at the time I was going through. Our flight was delayed about an hour, though, because there were 20 passengers from connecting flights who were running late, including my seat mate.

The fight seemed long to me, but I was in the  "comfort" coach section, which is worth every penny with roomier seats, priority boarding and reserved overhead storage compartments.

Passport control and customs in Seattle was efficient and went pretty quickly.  Much improved over the old system, but it will be nice when the new international arrivals area is completed.

Katie and Mom picked me up and I was home a little after 1:00 to share some of the goodies (macarons and chocolates) I brought home with me.  Simon was happy to see me,  too.

Day 14 -Wandering around the 1st Arrondissement; 12,000 steps

Today was an unplanned day.  I completed my planned itinerary, missing just a few minor sights, either because of inconvenience, fatigue, or lack of time.  My card system worked really well.

After a few days of sunshine, today was grey, but it didn't rain. I set out a little after 10 this morning, stopping to get some more cash at the local ATM before getting on the bus.  I headed down to Palais Royal and strolled through part of it.  So many locations are under some sort of construction or renovation.  Not sure what was going on here, but I watched a guy who was straddling the top of a stepladder and using it like stilts to move along a wall.  I stopped at a cafe for a cafe creme - 5 euros!  Geesh!  I walked up Rue St. Honore where there are many high end boutiques.  I thought much of it was gaudy, certainly not my taste, but way far out of my price range anyway.  The last time I was here, Place Vendome was under renovation with the column enclosed in a box, and the Ritz Hotel had been closed for three or four years for renovation.  Now the renovation is complete, so everything is back to normal.

I had lunch at Da Rosa.  I stopped here four years ago for "un cafe and les toilettes," and the people were so nice that I've wanted to go back for a meal.  The place has been rearranged inside and the nice lady wasn't there, but the staff was friendly, and became quite busy for lunch.  They still have their nice main floor "toilette."  In so many places, les toilettes are either up or down a steep spiral staircase, so having one on the ground floor is rare, though I have come across a few of them on this trip.  My risotto was really good with thin slices of Spanish ham, which is their specialty.

After lunch I walked up to La Madeline, which is undergoing its own restoration or cleaning.  Fouchon is a specialty food shop behind La Madeline and I walked up there, but ended up not buying anything.  About this time, my feet started to protest loudly, so I rode the bus up to La Opera, and transferred to the #29 that stops at Place des Vosges, which is 2 blocks from the apartment.  With just 3 or 4 stops to go, the driver made an announcement and some people got off, but instead of turning left onto Rue Rambuteau, he went straight.  I finally, asked to get off near the Hotel de Ville and walked over to the Metro for the short ride to the St. Paul stop and home -- feet protesting all the way.

This is my last night in the apartment.  This morning I spent some time trying to get organized and did a load of laundry, which is drying now.  I need to check out at 10 tomorrow morning and someone is coming to help me get my luggage down the steep stairway with no handrail.  There are just 16 steps, and they haven't been hard to deal with, but I can just seem me and my suitcase ending up at the bottom in a pile.  No thank you!  I asked for assistance and I am grateful to them for the help.

The plan for tomorrow is to take a taxi to the Novotel at the airport where I'll drop my luggage, then take the train back into Central Paris -- unless my feet protest too much.  We'll see.

Day 13 - Rue Mouffetard and the Pantheon;  16,600 steps

Yesterday and today have been noticeably warmer, and both days were clear and sunny.

I rode the bus over to the 5th arrondissement, which is across the river from where I am in the 4th.  The 5th is also referred to as the Latin Quarter.  The Sorbonne University is in this district.  In the early days of the university (13th century!) Latin was used for instruction and was the language spoken by the students.  Since that was the language heard in the area, it was dubbed the Latin Quarter.

The bus stopped right out side Luxembourg Gardens, so I took advantage of the opportunity to stroll around a little.  There are still many flowers blooming, in particular a bed full of beautiful begonias. Parisians use their parks.  I think much more than we do, at least in Seattle.  And, while I have seen many homeless people on the streets, I've not seen that they are camping out in the gardens.  Doesn't mean they don't, but if they do, I haven't seen them.

I walked over to the Pantheon, but the gates were all closed and there was a notice that the site wouldn't open until 1:30 today.  So, I walked over to Rue Mouffetard, which was a fairly long walk (for me, anyway).  Rue Mouffetard is a popular shopping street. Mostly, I just wanted to see it as I had not been there before.  There was one of the most beautiful fish markets I've ever seen, lots of fruit and vegetable shops, crepe shops, fondue shops, etc.  Lots of shoppers, too.  I just bought some chocolate to take home at the Jeff de Bruges shop.  I had lunch at Place St. Medard.  It was a tough cut of beef cooked somewhat like swiss steak in onion gravy.  It was chewy but tasty; served with really good fries and a field green salad.

I rode the bus back to the Pantheon.  In my seven trips to Paris, this is the first time I've been there.  It is a huge building.  It was originally built as a church to honor Ste. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris. However, after the revolution its function as a church was suspended in order to "receive the bodies of the men to died in the period of French liberty."  The building was secularized and most of the religious symbolism was removed.  French writers and poets are also buried there, including Voltaire, Rousseau, Zola, and Hugo.  I didn't go down to the crypt because the stairs leading down just looked too scary. So far on this trip I have remained upright and I intend to stay that way!

I rode the bus back to the Right bank and was going to walk back to the apartment, but when I came to the Hotel de Ville Metro station, and decided to ride - just one stop, but worth it!

After dinner - a hamburger, can you believe it?! - and a beer, I rode the #69 bus to the Champs de Mars, the park at the base of the Eiffel Tower.  It has lights on it all night long, but on the hour it sparkles for 5 minutes.  It is magical.  There was quite a crowd there to watch - very festive - and, of course, the guys hawking their souvenirs.  My timing was just right.  Got there about 10 minutes before sparkle time, so had time to find a good spot, and when I was ready to go back, there was a bus there ready to take me. It was really neat riding through the streets at night.  All of the cafes were lit up and full of people, and you could see into some of the buildings - even into some apartments.  All of the monuments and major buildings are all lit up, too.  I actually got better pictures on my cell phone, including a video.  When I get home, I'll try to transfer the pictures from my phone (that's where all my food porn pictures are) and post them.  The video is posted on my Facebook page.

By the way, the hamburger, which I had at a neighborhood bistrot, was really good.  Good bun - toasted with lots of sesame seeds.  No one makes bread like the French.

Day 12 - September 20 - Aligre Market & Fabric Stores - 12,800 Steps

Today was spent mostly in the 11th & 12 arrondissements, using the bus for transportation. I started off at Place d'Aligre where there is a large covered market that is open everyday except Monday; however, the building is currently undergoing renovations, so the produce market is on the adjacent street while the meat and cheese remains in part of the building.  There is also a flea market in the square.  Since my trip is winding down, I didn't buy any food, and I'm not much of a flea market shopper, though I did look around.  Lots of old silver, mostly plate, china, and jewelry, as well as some clothing, books and art.

When we were here in 2015, Kathy & I went to the St. Pierre Fabric Market on Montmartre, which is so huge it is overwhelming.  This time I was looking for smaller quilt or patchwork shops.  I found three online, which are all in the 11th, fairly close to each other.  Of the three, two were a disappointment.  One had virtually no fabric but mostly notions, such as trims, ribbon, buttons, thread, zippers, etc.  I bought some #7 needles with large eyes.  The other had fabric, but mostly for garments. I bought a few remnants that should be okay for quilting. The third was a Patchwork Boutique and quite a nice quilt shop.  Lots of cotton fabrics from all over the world, including France, Japan, Australia, Indonesia, and Moda fabrics from the US.  I bought several fat quarters of French fabrics.

I had lunch at Place Voltaire - a salad with warm chevre on toast with tomatoes and hard boiled eggs. While riding the bus home, I realized that I was really tired, so decided to just go back to the apartment to rest for the remainder of the afternoon.

I met Sandy and Susan for dinner at Ambassade d'Auvergne.  This was the third time I'd been there as it is very close to the other apartments I've rented.  Our reservations were for 7:30, but we weren't actually the first ones there, and by the time we left, the place was full and lively.  Generally, the French are fairly quiet in restaurants, but this crowd was pretty loud - maybe they weren't French.  The wait staff was very attentive.  We ordered a bottle of wine and a starter of snails to share.  I ordered the roasted duck, which was cooked perfectly.  It was served with aligot, which is one of their specialties. It is mashed potatoes, garlic, and cheese that is whipped until it is a stringy/sticky consistency.  They bring the pot to the table while beating it, raising the spoon up high with the gooey stuff.  I love it! But, I couldn't eat all they gave me -- probably because I was looking forward to their other specialty: chocolate mousse, dark chocolate mousse that they bring to the table and serve from a big bowl.  I was even asked if I wanted more, but I passed.

It was fun visiting with Sandy and Susan, but I'm envious because they are here for yet another week.

It was 10:00 when I got back to the apartment.

Day 11 - Montmartre; 12,000 Steps

Today was pretty much unplanned.  I did know that I wanted to go back to Passage Panorama to see if the shop where I saw something I wanted to buy was open.  Happily, it was.

I thought about walking down Rue de Rivoli to the stop for the #67 that would take me up to Grands Boulevards as well as Montmartre, but since a #69 was at my stop when I went by, I jumped on, and I'm glad I did.  Because of construction on Rue de Rivoli, the next 2 stops were blocked, so I would have had to walk a lot further than I had planned.  I transferred and got off a block from Passage Panorama.  It was really quiet in the Passage, but it was just a little past 10, so many places were just opening.  I was so happy to see that the shop was open.  The proprietor was very friendly and we chatted in a combination of French and English, and I was able to buy what had caught my eye in the window last week.

I rode up the hill to Montmartre and got off at Pigalle where I could get on the Montmartre Bus, which meanders through the narrow streets in a circuit.  I rode all the way up the hill to Place du Tertre, which is near Sacre Coeur.  This square is quite touristy as it is where the artists are located.  The artists are vetted, however, and some of their work is quite good.  I walked around for awhile, but didn't buy anything this time.  I didn't go over to Sacre Coeur as my objective this trip is to avoid crowds wherever possible, and I have been there before.

For lunch, I went to Chez Plumeau on Place du Calvaire, which is just around the corner from Place du Tertre.  This restaurant is mentioned a lot on the Trip Advisor Paris Forum, but it was a slow day and I was the only one there.  I had an interesting salad with ham, onions, poached egg, and tomato.  The ham, onions (cooked), and egg were served on the lettuce in a cup made from a crepe.  Under the crepe was a piece of toast with melted cheese on it.  As I said, it was interesting.  I washed it down with a glass of white wine.  The server spoke excellent "American English," but had never been to the US.  He said he had been to England, but he watches a lot of American TV, thus his accent.

After lunch, I walked down Rue Lepic - a long downhill street, if you start from the top.  This is the neighborhood where many artists like Monet and Van Gogh lived, but it is pretty much gentrified now. Originally Montmartre was the country and there were several windmills.  There are only two left.  One is a restaurant - where Renoir painted a famous picture - and one is privately owned.  Then, of course, there is La Moulin Rouge, but that's another story.  I walked all the way down the hill back to Pigalle where I caught a bus.

I got off the bus near Rue Cadet, which is a shopping street in the 9th Arrondissement off Blvd. Lafayette.  When Mom and I were in Paris in 1994, we stayed at Hotel Cadet Opera, which is on that street.  However, my reason for going was to use one of my Food Passport coupons at a small shop specializing in all things duck; specifically, foie gras and pate.  The shop is owned by a young man fro Southwest France.  His partner's family raises ducks and processes all of their product.  He gave me a tasting of duck pate with foie gras on toast that was delicious.  He also spoke excellent English and we must have talked for at least 45 minutes.  It was hard to drag myself away.  I did buy some foie gras and rillettes (sort of like pate, but spiced) to take home.

Back on the bus and "home."  It was a fun day.  I really enjoyed visiting with these locals who were so friendly and forthcoming.

I did not study French as much as I should have before this trip, but I do seem to be doing okay with what I know.  I can make myself understood better than I can understand spoken French.

Paris is not exempt from homelessness.  I have seen more homeless on this trip than on prior ones.  Just about everywhere I go I see people sleeping in doorways or on the sidewalk next to a building.  Sometimes they have a sleeping bag, or even a mattress, but I have seen some who have nothing more than cardboard for a cover.  There are also lots of beggars sitting on sidewalks, many with dogs.  Yesterday, as I was waiting for the tour bus to pull out, I saw two different men dig through trash, checking Starbucks cups.  If there was anything left in the cup, they drank it, then put the cup back in the trash.  To travel, I think, means seeing the ugly as well as the beauty; otherwise, you are not experiencing the truth.  But, it is still very sad to see.

Day 10 - September 18; Two Chateaux; 11,250 Steps

Another early rising, and I took the Metro (during rush hour, yet) to the Tuileries Gardens. It was a short walk to the Paris City Vision office at Place des Pyramides with its gilded statue of Joan of Arc. Of course, I was there far too early, but soon boarded the bus, heading to the Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte.

The bus was huge, very comfortable, and full.  I was one of 12 people who had signed up for the guided tour.  It was nearly an hour before we arrived at the Chateau, which is literally out in the middle of nowhere. It was blue-sky-sunny when we left Paris, but as we drove deeper into the countryside, it got very foggy.  We couldn't see much, but drove through cultivated fields.  They grow sugar beets, canola, and wheat in the area.

Vaux-le-Vicomte was built in the mid-1600's by Nicolas Fouquet, who was finance minister and tax collector for Louis XIV.  Upon completion, he through a lavish party, and invited Louis.  The chateau was grander and more elegant than anything Louis owned, so he got miffed and returned to Fountainebleau.  I think Louis must have started to think about how his finance minister and tax collector was wealthy enough to build something so grand, so a couple of weeks later he has Fouquet arrested.  So, the poor guy never really got to live in the chateau, but Louis, not to be outdone, took possession of all of the furnishings at Vicomte and built Versailles.  The chateau fell into decay until the late nineteenth century when the ancestor of the current owners bought it at auction.  It was restored and opened to the public in 1968.  It is the largest privately owned chateau in France.

The chateau is fully furnished, but most items are either replicas of original furnishings or antiques purchased in the 19th century.  There are also extensive gardens with water features, including a moat - the building on the site when Fouquet bought it was a fortress.  Our tour included rooms on two floors plus the kitchens and our guide provided a great deal of information, both about the furnishings and the history of the property.  It was all very impressive.

At the end of the tour we had some free time, and had lunch at the cafeteria located on the property, as well as a visit to the boutique.

I slept through the entire 45 minute drive to Fountainebleau.  By contrast, while Vaux-le-Vicomte is in the middle of nowhere, Fountainebleau is in the middle of the small town by the same name.  The chateau was built by Francois I, the renaissance king of France.  His contemporary was Henry VIII.  It was added onto over the years by other kings, including Henri I and Henri IV.  It was the favorite chateau of many of France's kings, and especially Napoleon I.  Our tour included the private apartments of Napoleon.  The property includes extensive gardens as well as the Forest of Fountainebleau, which is the largest forest in France.

These are definitely the chateaux you want to visit if you want to get away from the crowds.  It has been years since I visited Versailles (other than the town and King's vegetable garden), but I do know it is very crowded.  What the three chateaux have in common, other than their beauty, are their paving stones -- big and uneven -- very difficult to walk on.

It took a little over an hour to get back to Paris due to heavy rush-hour traffic, but it seemed a lot longer. I rode the crowded Metro back and was offered a seat by at least 5 different people, but I politely declined since I didn't have many stops before getting off.

It was a nice day -- good weather, though it did rain on the drive back to Paris.  I'm glad I did the guided tour, but otherwise have little interest in long bus tours.

Well, I want to get my day started, so will post pictures later.